Perfect skin does not come naturally to many of us. Blemished skin, on the other hand, is an extremely common problem. In fact, it may be America's most prevalent disease, affecting 85% of its teenage population.
About one fifth of the adult population has active acne. Interestingly enough, acne tends to flare up in the fall, and dermatologists report double the number of acne patients as compared to those they have in summer.
WHAT CAUSES THE BLEMISHES COMMONLY ASSOCIATED WITH ACNE?
Blemished skin (blackheads, whiteheads, pustules, cysts) is caused by a superabundance of oil below the skin's surface. This oil, or sebum, is secreted by the sebaceous glands, follicle and out the pore to lubricate the skin. Skin cells lining the follicle also work their way out the pore as they shed. Sometimes, however, instead of reaching the surface and sloughing off, these cells clump together inside, clogging the pore. When the pore is clogged and sebum continues to be secreted, pressure builds. Eventually, the wall splits and releases sebum into the surrounding tissue, causing inflammation in the form of red, tender pimples or cysts.
Most products seek to remedy the situation by eliminating the oil on the surface, drying the skin. The problem with this is that oil is supposed to be there--- one of the functions of the skin is to prevent dehydration of the inner tissues of the body. Removing oil only stimulates the skin to produce more. The net result of treatments which dry the skin is to force the skin to work overtime to produce more oil, which is what caused blemishes in the first place.
A GOOD DAILY PROGRAM IS THE KEY!
Instead of trying to eliminate the symptoms of acne, doesn't it make more sense to eliminate the cause? Use a daily skin care program which enables the skin to break free from the vicious cycle of over-stimulated oil glands.
Choose cleansers that are oil-and-water emulsions. The oils gently soften the hardened sebum. Allowing it to be rinsed away. By cleansing in this manner, the skin does not dehydrate and the sebum does not harden, causing plugs. Do not scrub or use abrasive substances.
Washing more than once or twice a day is not necessary. Too frequent washing, especially during cold weather, can actually cause irritation. Use clean cosmetic sponges of facecloths every time you wash. In cases of severe acne, these should be boiled between uses.
Toners should contain plant alcohols, not isopropyl alcohol (which comes from petrochemicals). Beware of alcohol-based products that you apply until you see "no more traces of dirt" on a pad or cotton ball. The skin's sebum reacts chemically with alcohol and turns brown. In short, what you are removing is valuable oils--- not dirt.
Use a day cream to protect and prevent infection from bacteria and other pollutants (and against the dirt from your hands when as you touch your face). It should have moisture retaining substances to discourage production of oil by the sebaceous glands.
A night cream should have ingredients that mix well with sebum and prevent it from hardening. They should also have antibacterial, healing ingredients that nourish the skin and promote healthy cell growth, since the night is the time during which cells regenerate.
A word of caution: when you first start using products that loosen plugs, your face may appear worse. Acne lesions under the skin that you did not notice before come to the surface and are visible. Eventually, as the program opens the pores and drainage is complete, the skin clears dramatically.
STEAM WITH HERBS TO SPEED HEALING
There is a technique for speeding up the healing process--- an herbal steam bath. Pour hot water over herbs to set the essential oils free. Allow to steep a few minutes. Put your face over the water, cover with a towel, and steam for eight minutes. This will melt the hardened sebum plugs. The vapors will heal damaged tissue and kill bacteria. Pat the face dry.
The following herbs are most beneficial for acne facial steams--
- Allantoin-- Helps heal damaged skin by stimulating the growth of new tissue. Aids in the temporary relief of minor skin irritations.
- Aloe-- Healing, moistens and softens the skin, slightly anti-inflammatory, antibiotic, relieves pain, calming.
- Calendula-- Healing, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, toner, good for delicate skin, soothing.
- Horse Chestnut-- Toning, astringent, improves the ability of the skin to absorb active substances. Stimulates blood circulation.
- Marsh Mallow (Althea)-- Soothes, softens, nourishes. An emollient present in the roots of this plant contains sterols, lecithin. And the amino acid asparagin.
- Restharrow-- Emollient, calming.
- Rosemary-- Tones, stimulates circulation.
- Sage-- Antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, astringent, has wound healing abilities.
- Witch Hazel-- Distilled from the bark, leaves and flower-bearing twigs of the hamamelis plant. Astringent, styptic, and antiseptic.
SPECIAL INGREDIENTS FOR CRISIS MANAGEMENT
For especially serious, difficult-to-treat cases of acne, try substituting a moisturizing gel containing sodium salicylate for your day cream. Sodium salicylate converts to salicylic acid upon contact with the skin and has a mild exfoliating effect similar to that of alpha hydroxy acids with less danger of irritation. Clear sticks containing sodium salicylate are available for spot treatment of blemishes.
Sodium salicylate products are also effective at prevention of blemishes if applied immediately upon spots where one can feel hardening underneath the skin which indicates the development of a cyst. These products are especially effective if farnesol is added to moisturize and bind moisture, thereby preventing dryness and cracking.
Many people use these products as a preventative treatment during times of the month when they are most likely to have hormonal breakouts.
Although acne is primarily a cosmetic problem, its psychological consequences can be serious. Try these suggestions outlined above and see just how effective proper skin care can be!
References--
Anonymous. "Something Can Be Done About Acne".
American Medical Association. 1977. Rev.1984.
"Acne". American Academy of Dermatology. C. 1986. Rev.1991.
Cadoff, Jennifer. "What Kids can Do About Acne… Besides Freak Out". Parents Magazine. December 1993.pp.129-132.
Fuller, Ralph N. "Acne:Finding Effective Treatment". Lahey Clinic. Summer, 1985. pp.9-11.
Gerson, Joel. Standard Textbook for Professional Estheticians. 5th Edition. Bronx, NY: Milady Publishing Corp. 1979. Rev. 1986.
Greenwood, Sadja,M.D. "Women's Health:Acne and Wrinkle Drug Hazards". Medical Selfcare. September/October 1989.p19.
Lamb, Lawrence,M.D. "Acne and Rosacea". The Health Letter. Special Report 100.
"What Will Clear Up Teen's Acne?" The Boston Herald. Saturday, January 19, 1991.p.34.
Lamberg, Lynne. "Acne-Your Clear Skin Guide". Knoxville: Whittle Communications. 1988
Perney, Linda. "The Big Beautifiers". Mirabella. October 1989. pp.74-77.
Schorr, Lia with Shari Miller. "Acne:A Skin Trial At Any Age". Lisa Schorr's Skin Care Guide for Men. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice Hall.1985.
Wilson, Roberta."Don't Hide Your Face! Natural Remedies for Acne." Body, Mind & Spirit. November/December. 1991.
Author: Linda K. Upton
Last Update:: 0000-00-00
